March 26, 2025

How to Grow Strawberry Plants [Full Guide]

There’s nothing quite like biting into a perfectly ripe strawberry, still warm from the sun. That sweet, slightly tart flavor hits differently when it comes from your own garden. Growing strawberries can be surprisingly easy since they’re versatile, adapt well to different climates, and require relatively little maintenance compared to other fruit plants.

With the right care, a single strawberry plant can produce fruit for several years, making it a worthwhile long-term addition to your garden. Whether you’re after a big summer harvest from June-bearing plants or a steady trickle of berries from everbearing varieties, understanding what strawberry plants need is the key to success.

This guide covers everything you need to know, from planting and care to harvesting and managing pests. Follow these steps to enjoy a delicious strawberry harvest season after season.

Understanding Strawberry Varieties

Strawberries can be categorized into three main types, each with its own growth habit and production cycle. Understanding the differences allows gardeners to select the best varieties for their growing conditions and goals.

June-Bearing Strawberries

June-bearing strawberries produce one large crop per year, typically in early summer. These plants flower and produce fruit for about 2–3 weeks, making them ideal for gardeners who want a concentrated harvest. They are often used for making jams, pies, and preserving due to their high yield. June-bearing plants produce runners prolifically, allowing gardeners to propagate new plants easily.

Ever-Bearing Strawberries

Everbearing strawberries provide two to three smaller harvests throughout the growing season, usually in late spring, midsummer, and early fall. They are ideal for gardeners who prefer a steady supply of fruit rather than a single large crop. While they produce fewer runners than June-bearing types, ever-bearing plants focus more energy on producing fruit, which results in higher-quality berries.

Day-Neutral Strawberries

Day-neutral strawberries are less affected by day length and will continue producing fruit as long as the weather remains mild. They provide consistent fruit throughout the summer and into early fall. While they tend to produce smaller berries compared to June-bearing varieties, their continuous production makes them valuable for fresh eating.

Mixing Varieties for Best Results

For a continuous supply of strawberries throughout the growing season, combining June-bearing, ever-bearing, and day-neutral varieties is recommended. This strategy ensures a steady harvest and allows gardeners to enjoy fresh berries while also having enough fruit for preserving and baking. Rotating different types of strawberries within the same strawberry bed can also improve soil health and reduce disease pressure over time.

Ideal Growing Conditions

Strawberries are fairly hardy, but they have some specific needs when it comes to soil, sunlight, and temperature. They might seem low-maintenance at first, but if you’ve ever ended up with tiny berries or plants that just don’t seem to thrive, chances are one of these key factors is off balance.

Soil Requirements

It's best to grow strawberries in well-draining, nutrient-rich soil with a pH between 5.5 and 6.8. Sandy loam or rich, organic soil mixed with compost provides an ideal growing medium. Heavy clay soil should be avoided, as it can retain too much moisture and cause root rot. Amending the soil with organic matter such as aged manure or compost improves drainage and adds essential nutrients. Before planting, test the soil to ensure the correct pH balance and nutrient levels.

Sunlight Needs

Strawberries require at least 6–8 hours of direct sunlight per day. Full sun exposure encourages strong growth and improves fruit development. When planting in raised beds or containers, positioning the plants in a spot that receives consistent sunlight throughout the day will maximize fruit production. If the garden is partially shaded, focus on growing everbearing or day-neutral varieties, which are more tolerant of reduced light.

Temperature and Climate

Strawberries grow best in temperatures between 60°F and 80°F. High heat can reduce fruit quality and cause plants to stop producing. In regions with hot summers, providing light shade during the hottest part of the day helps prevent stress on the plants.

In cooler climates, planting strawberries in early spring as soon as the soil can be worked gives the plants a head start before the summer heat. Protecting the plants from extreme winter cold with straw mulch or row covers can help maintain plant health and improve fruit production the following season.

Spacing and Air Circulation

Proper spacing is essential for preventing disease and ensuring healthy growth. Strawberry plants should be set 12–18 inches apart in rows spaced 3–4 feet apart. Overcrowding can lead to poor air circulation, increased humidity, and greater risk of fungal diseases. Providing enough space allows for better sunlight penetration and helps keep the soil moist and the plants clean.

Raised Beds and Containers

Growing strawberries in raised beds or half-barrels offers several advantages, including improved drainage, better control over soil quality, and easier maintenance. Raised beds should be at least 12 inches deep and filled with a high-quality soil mix. Half-barrels or other large containers filled with nutrient-rich soil work well for small gardens or patios.

Strawberries grown in containers dry out faster, so they need more frequent watering. On the plus side, being elevated keeps the fruit cleaner and helps protect it from soil-borne pests and diseases.

When to Plant Strawberries

Getting the timing and technique right when planting strawberries can make all the difference between a modest harvest and an overflowing basket of sweet, juicy berries. Setting them up properly from the start gives the plants a strong foundation for consistent fruit production.

Plant strawberries in early spring as soon as the ground is workable. This gives the plants time to establish strong root systems before the summer heat arrives. In warmer climates, planting in the fall is a smart move since it allows the plants to root deeply and get a head start in early spring.

Timing is key, if the ground is too wet or cold, the plants may struggle to establish themselves, but waiting too long can shorten the growing window and limit fruit production.

Positioning the plants correctly is just as important. The crown of the plant, where the leaves meet the roots, should sit level with the soil surface. If planted too deeply, the crown can rot, if planted too shallowly, the roots may dry out and stress the plant. After planting, gently press the soil around the roots to ensure good contact without compacting it. Space plants 12 to 18 inches apart to give them room to spread and improve air circulation, which helps prevent fungal issues down the line.

See our full article on spring planting tips and strategies to kickstart your garden here.

Care and Maintenance

Strawberries require a balance of moisture, nutrients, and pruning to stay productive. Setting the plants correctly and maintaining them well will boost fruit yield and extend their life cycle.

strawberry plants

Watering

Consistent watering is essential for strawberry plants, especially during flowering and fruit production. Strawberries have shallow root systems, so they need regular moisture to thrive, but the key is to keep the soil consistently moist without becoming waterlogged. Watering at the base of the plant is ideal, as wet leaves are more susceptible to diseases like powdery mildew. A drip irrigation system is highly effective for strawberries because it delivers moisture directly to the roots without wetting the foliage. Early morning watering is best, as it gives the plants time to absorb moisture and dry off before the cooler evening temperatures set in.

Mulching

Mulching is essential for maintaining healthy strawberry plants. Adding a 2 to 3-inch layer of straw mulch around the plants helps regulate soil temperature, keeping it warm in cooler months and cool during summer heat. It also prevents moisture loss, which supports consistent fruit production, and suppresses weeds that compete for nutrients and water. As the mulch breaks down, it enriches the soil with organic matter, improving overall soil health. Mulching also keeps the fruit clean by preventing dirt and moisture from splashing onto the berries during rain or watering.

Pruning and Training

Removing runners from the long stems that develop from the mother plant and produce baby plants, is crucial if larger berries are the goal. Runners draw energy away from fruit production, so cutting them off allows the plant to focus its energy on producing bigger, juicier berries. However, if the goal is to expand the strawberry patch, allowing a few runners to take root and develop into new plants can naturally increase the size of the bed.

Thinning out older plants every three to four years helps keep the patch productive. Strawberry plants tend to decline in fruit production after a few years, so removing older plants and replacing them with younger ones helps maintain a consistent crop. This process also improves air circulation and reduces the spread of plant diseases. When thinning plants, focus on removing any that appear weak, damaged, or overcrowded.

Feeding and Fertilizing

Regular feeding with a balanced fertilizer ensures that the plants have the nutrients they need to sustain fruit production. A fertilizer high in potassium and phosphorus supports flowering and fruiting, while nitrogen should be used sparingly to avoid excessive leaf growth at the expense of fruit production.

Applying fertilizer when the plants first flower and again after the first harvest helps maintain steady fruiting throughout the season. Compost or aged manure is also beneficial, adding nutrients and improving soil texture. Overfeeding with nitrogen-rich fertilizer should be avoided, as it encourages leaf growth rather than fruit development.

Dealing with Strawberry Plant Pests and Diseases

Pests and diseases are two of the biggest threats to a productive strawberry patch, and if left unchecked, they can quickly derail even the most carefully planned growing season. The key to keeping strawberry plants healthy lies in early identification, consistent monitoring, and using natural, effective treatments that protect both the plants and the surrounding ecosystem.

Common Pests

Strawberry plants are magnets for common garden pests, especially during peak fruiting times. Aphids, thrips, whiteflies, and spider mites are among the most common troublemakers, and they can cause significant damage if not controlled early. Implementing an Integrated Pest Management (IPM) strategy is crucial for managing these pests effectively while minimizing harm to beneficial insects and the overall ecosystem.

Lost Coast Plant Therapy works by coating the insects and disrupting their feeding process, helping to manage infestations without harming beneficial insects like ladybugs and bees. Regularly inspecting the undersides of leaves helps catch soft-bodied pest problems early before they get out of hand.

See our Ingredients here and How it Works here.

Common Strawberry Diseases

Diseases are often more difficult to manage than pests because they tend to spread quickly and are harder to identify in the early stages. Fungal diseases, in particular, are common among strawberry plants due to their preference for moist conditions. Powdery mildew, root rot, and gray mold are the most frequently encountered issues.

Powdery mildew appears as a white, powdery coating on the leaves and stems. It thrives in humid environments and tends to develop when air circulation is poor. Removing infected leaves and improving airflow around the plants helps prevent further spread. A natural treatment like Lost Coast Plant Therapy can also be highly effective for controlling powdery mildew. The active ingredients in our Natural Plant Protector coat the surface of the leaves and disrupt fungal growth without leaving harmful residues on the fruit. Consistent application during periods of high humidity can prevent mildew from taking hold.

Root rot is typically caused by poor drainage and overwatering. When strawberry roots sit in soggy soil for too long, they begin to decay, turning dark and mushy. Once root rot sets in, it can be difficult to save the plant. The best prevention is proper soil preparation, well-draining soil with plenty of organic matter helps keep moisture levels balanced. Raised beds or mounded rows improve drainage and prevent water from pooling around the roots. If root rot is suspected, removing affected plants promptly can prevent the disease from spreading to neighboring plants.

Gray mold (botrytis fruit rot) is another common strawberry disease. It starts as small brown spots on the fruit and eventually covers the berries with a fuzzy gray mold. This fungus thrives in cool, damp conditions and spreads quickly when strawberries are left touching the soil or each other. Mulching, good air circulation, and careful watering minimize the conditions that allow gray mold to develop. If gray mold appears, affected berries should be removed immediately, and applying Lost Coast Plant Therapy to the surrounding plants can help contain the spread.

The Threat of Neopestalotiopsis (Neo-P)

One of the most aggressive and damaging diseases facing strawberry growers today is Neopestalotiopsis, a strawberry fungus commonly referred to as Neo-P. First identified in Florida strawberry fields, this fungal disease has spread to other states, including Wisconsin and North Carolina, where it continues to threaten strawberry crops. Unlike more common fungal diseases, Neo-P affects every part of the plant, leaves, stems, flowers, fruit, and crowns, making it particularly hard to control.

Neo-P spreads through airborne spores, soil, and plant debris and thrives in humid environments and wet conditions, making it especially dangerous in regions with frequent rain or high humidity. Even after infected plants are removed, spores can remain in the soil for months, ready to attack new plants as soon as environmental conditions are favorable. The disease often starts with dark spots on the leaves, which quickly develop into large, brittle lesions. From there, it moves into the stems and crowns, cutting off the plant’s ability to transport nutrients and water, leading to rapid collapse.

What makes Neo-P so dangerous is its persistence. Infected soil, plant debris, and even rainwater can all serve as carriers for the disease. Plants that initially appear healthy can become infected weeks later as spores travel through the soil and air. For growers who have dealt with Neo-P before, rotating crops and improving soil health are essential for breaking the infection cycle.

Read our full article on how to fight this strawberry fungus here.

Harvesting and Storage

Strawberries that are picked too early will lack sweetness and may not fully ripen off the plant, while those left on the vine too long can become mushy or overripe. Timing and handling during harvest make a big difference in both the quality and shelf life of the fruit. A well-timed harvest ensures that the berries are at peak sweetness and texture, delivering the best flavor possible.

When to Harvest

Strawberries should be picked when they are fully red and plump. Unlike some other fruits that continue to ripen after being picked, strawberries stop developing sweetness once they are removed from the plant. A fully ripe strawberry will have a uniform red color from top to tip, with a slight sheen on the surface. If the berry still has white or green areas near the stem, it’s not ready to pick. During peak season, strawberries ripen quickly, often within a day or two. Check the plants daily to avoid missing the ideal harvest window. The best time to harvest is in the morning when the berries are still cool from the night air. Harvesting when the fruit is cool also helps preserve its firmness and extends its shelf life.

When picking strawberries, it’s important to handle them gently to avoid bruising. Grasp the stem just above the berry and use scissors or garden snips to cut it, leaving a small section of stem attached to the fruit. Pulling the berry off by hand can damage the plant and leave an opening where pests and diseases can enter. Leaving a short stem helps protect the berry from bruising and slows down moisture loss. After picking, place the berries carefully into a shallow container rather than piling them on top of each other. Overloading a container causes the lower berries to bruise and become soft. For larger harvests, using a flat tray lined with a soft cloth helps keep the berries from becoming damaged during transport.

How to Store

Once harvested, strawberries should be eaten or processed as soon as possible for the best flavor and texture. Strawberries are highly perishable and begin to lose their sweetness and firmness within a day or two. If eating fresh, the berries should be rinsed just before eating, not before storing, as excess moisture encourages mold and reduces shelf life. For short-term storage, strawberries should be kept in the refrigerator in a breathable container lined with a paper towel to absorb moisture. Refrigerated strawberries typically stay fresh for up to five days, but they taste best when consumed within the first two days.

Freezing is an excellent way to preserve a large strawberry harvest for later use. To freeze strawberries, rinse them gently under cool water, remove the stems, and pat them dry. Lay the berries out in a single layer on a baking sheet and freeze them until solid. Once frozen, transfer the berries to a freezer-safe container or bag. Freezing the berries individually prevents them from clumping together, making it easier to use only the amount needed later.

Bonus Tips for Growing Strawberries Successfully

Small adjustments can have a big impact on fruit quality and plant health. Choosing the right varieties, rotating crops, and planting compatible companions can make all the difference in the success of your strawberry patch.

Test Different Varieties

One of the most effective ways to improve strawberry production is to experiment with different varieties to find what works best for your local microclimate. A strawberry variety that performs well in one region may struggle in another due to differences in soil composition, humidity, and temperature. Trying a mix of all three types allows for a longer harvest period and helps identify which varieties thrive in your specific growing conditions.

Rotate Strawberry Beds

Rotating strawberry beds every three to four years is another key strategy for maintaining soil health and preventing disease. Strawberries are particularly susceptible to soil-borne pathogens like root rot and fungal spores, which can accumulate over time if the same soil is used season after season. Planting strawberries in the same spot for too long also depletes soil nutrients, leading to smaller fruit and weaker plants. After three or four years, moving the strawberry patch to a new location reduces the buildup of pests and diseases and gives the soil time to recover. Planting nitrogen-fixing crops like legumes or leafy greens in the old strawberry bed helps restore soil balance and prepares it for future use.

Try Companion Planting

Companion planting is another simple but highly effective way to boost strawberry production and protect plants from pests. Onions and spinach are particularly good companions for strawberries. Onions release a natural chemical that deters aphids and other soft-bodied insects, reducing pest pressure on strawberry plants. Spinach grows low to the ground and helps shade the soil, which keeps moisture levels stable and prevents weeds from taking over. Both plants are also quick to mature, meaning they won’t compete with strawberries for space or nutrients during the peak fruiting period. Adding a border of marigolds or nasturtiums around the strawberry patch can further discourage pests and attract beneficial insects like pollinators.

Start with Quality Plants and Seeds

Plants from a reputable source are more likely to be free of diseases and pests, giving them a stronger start. When buying young strawberry plants, inspect them carefully for signs of infestation or stress. Avoid plants with wilted leaves, dark spots, or signs of insect damage. A healthy strawberry plant should have bright green leaves, a strong central growing bud, and of course, no visible pests. Buying non-GMO plants and seeds ensures that the plants have not been genetically modified, which helps preserve natural flavor and resistance to environmental stress.

Strawberry seeds require specific conditions to sprout, including consistent moisture and warmth. Starting seeds indoors before transplanting them into the garden helps protect young strawberry plants from pests and environmental stress. If buying bare-root strawberry plants, soaking the roots in water for an hour before planting helps them establish more quickly.

See our guide to seed starting here.

Troubleshooting Strawberry Plant Issues

Even experienced gardeners encounter problems when growing strawberries. Poor fruit production, yellow leaves, and misshapen berries are all common issues that can often be corrected with a few adjustments to growing conditions and care techniques. Identifying the root cause of the problem is the first step toward a successful solution.

Small Berries

Small berries are typically a sign of poor soil nutrition or overcrowding. When strawberry plants are competing for space and nutrients, they produce smaller fruit. Thinning out overcrowded plants allows more room for root development and increases airflow, which improves overall plant health. Adding compost or a balanced fertilizer rich in potassium and phosphorus supports larger fruit development and improves berry sweetness.

Yellow Leaves

Yellow leaves are often a sign of overwatering or poor drainage. Strawberry plants prefer moist but well-draining soil, and standing water around the roots quickly leads to rot and nutrient deficiencies. If yellow leaves appear, improving soil drainage by adding organic matter or planting in raised beds can resolve the issue.

No Berries

If your strawberry plants look healthy but aren't producing fruit, poor pollination or excessive nitrogen could be to blame. Too much nitrogen promotes leafy growth at the expense of fruit production. Switching to a balanced or low-nitrogen fertilizer can help redirect the plant’s energy toward developing fruit. Poor pollination can be improved by attracting pollinators like bees and butterflies to the garden. Planting pollinator-friendly flowers nearby and avoiding chemical pesticides will help ensure the plants get the pollination they need during bloom. You can also give nature a hand by gently shaking the plants or brushing the flowers with a soft brush to transfer pollen and increase fruit set.

Conclusion

One of the most valuable lessons in growing strawberries is patience. It takes time for plants to establish strong root systems, and the first season may not produce much fruit, but that’s normal. The effort you put in early on will pay off in future seasons as the plants mature and their yields increase. Remember, healthy soil and good air circulation are often the quiet, behind-the-scenes factors that make the biggest difference in fruit quality and disease resistance.

Not every growing season will be perfect. Some years you’ll battle pests more than others, sometimes a rainy spring or a heatwave will affect fruit production. That’s part of the process. Successful strawberry growing is about consistency and adapting to the natural cycles of your garden. When you walk out on a summer morning and see clusters of deep red berries tucked beneath bright green leaves, all the pruning, watering, and care suddenly feel worthwhile. The taste of a sun-warmed strawberry straight from the vine, perfectly sweet with a slight hint of tartness, is a reward no store-bought berry can match.

FAQ's

How do strawberries grow? 

Strawberries grow from a central crown, which produces leaves, flowers, and runners. The runners develop into daughter plants, which are essentially baby plants that can root and form new strawberry plants. Strawberries are perennial, meaning they return year after year when properly cared for. Strawberry plants usually begin flowering in the spring, and once pollinated, the flowers develop into green fruit that ripens as it is exposed to light and warmth. The plants will produce fruit throughout the growing season if conditions are favorable, especially when planted in nutrient-rich soil and provided with sufficient water and sunlight.

How long does it take for strawberries to grow? 

Strawberries typically take about 4 to 6 weeks from blossom to ripe fruit, depending on the variety and growing conditions. June-bearing strawberries produce a large crop over 2 to 3 weeks in late spring to early summer. Everbearing and day-neutral varieties can produce fruit throughout the growing season, beginning in late spring and continuing into late summer or early fall. Strawberries grown from runners or baby plants establish more quickly than those grown from seeds.

How to grow strawberries from seeds? 

To grow strawberries from seeds, start by preparing the soil before planting. Use well-draining, nutrient-rich soil with a pH between 5.5 and 6.8. Start growing the seeds indoors about 6 to 8 weeks before the last frost date. Plant seeds in seed trays or small pots, pressing them lightly into the soil without covering them completely, as strawberry seeds need to be exposed to light to germinate. Keep the soil consistently moist and place the trays in a warm, sunny location. Once the little plants have developed strong roots and a few leaves, transplant them into the garden or a raised bed after the danger of frost has passed. Strawberries can be planted in half-barrels, raised beds, or directly in the ground.

See more on how to start seeds here.

How to winterize strawberry plants in a raised bed? 

To winterize strawberry plants in a raised bed, begin after the first hard frost when the plants have stopped producing fruit. Cut back the leaves, leaving the crown of the plant intact. Apply a layer of straw mulch around and over the plants, about 3 to 4 inches thick, to insulate them from freezing temperatures. Straw in the fall helps regulate soil temperature and protect the roots from damage. If temperatures are expected to drop significantly, adding a row cover or additional mulch can provide extra protection. Remove the mulch in early spring when new growth appears.

How many strawberries per plant? 

On average, a healthy strawberry plant will produce about 1 to 2 pints of fruit per season. June-bearing varieties tend to produce a large crop once per year, while everbearing and day-neutral plants will produce fruit all season long, but in smaller amounts. The number of strawberries each plant produces depends on factors like soil quality, watering, and sunlight exposure.

Should I cut leaves off strawberry plants? 

Yes, it's beneficial to cut leaves off strawberry plants under certain circumstances. After fruiting, remove old or damaged leaves to improve air circulation and reduce the risk of fungal diseases like powdery mildew. Cutting back excess foliage also allows the plant to direct more energy toward producing fruit and new strawberry runner plants. However, avoid cutting the crown of the plant, as this is where new growth emerges. In late summer or early fall, trim back the leaves and cover the plants with straw to prepare them for winter.

How long do strawberries take to grow? 

From planting to harvest, strawberries typically take about 4 to 6 months to mature if grown from seed. However, if you start with established runner plants or bare-root plants, you can expect fruit within 4 to 6 weeks after the plants blossom.

See more FAQ's here.